Market Research Report  |  RisetLokal Research Desk

Apparel and Footwear Specialists Industry in Indonesia

Market Size, Store Network, Retailers, Brands, Channels & Regulation (2019–2024)

How Indonesia’s clothing and shoe stores are doing today: how much they sell, how many there are, who runs them, and why most of the money still goes to small local shops.

01 · Executive Summary

Big, fragmented and stuck at 2019 levels

Indonesia’s apparel and footwear specialist stores sold about IDR 136 trillion (around US$8.6 billion) in 2024, through roughly 39,000 outlets. That is almost exactly what they sold in 2019. After a 35% collapse in 2020 and three years of recovery, sales slipped by about 1% in 2024.

Behind the flat total are two very different stories. International chains in shopping malls, such as Uniqlo, H&M, Zara and Nike, kept opening stores and growing. Local independent shops, which serve lower- and middle-income shoppers, lost sales as household budgets tightened and buyers moved online.

Four facts frame the market today:

• Extreme fragmentation. The 20 largest international brand groups together hold only about 7.5% of store sales. The rest goes to local chains, independent shops and market traders.
• Growth is not keeping up with prices. In rupiah, sales are back to 2019 levels. After inflation they are about 13% lower.
• Malls versus main streets. Premium and fast-fashion chains, many run by franchise operator Mitra Adiperkasa (MAP), are expanding. Mass-market local players are struggling. Bata closed its last Indonesian shoe factory in 2024.
• Stores are getting bigger, not more numerous. Outlet numbers fell 1.7% in 2024, but selling space rose 1.6% as brands opened large flagship and “experience” stores.

02 · Scope & Method

What we measured

This report covers store-based retailers whose main business is clothing, footwear, bags and accessories: mono-brand stores (Uniqlo, Bata, Nike), multi-brand chains, and independent clothing and shoe shops. Department stores such as Matahari and Ramayana, hypermarkets, and pure online sellers are outside the market size, although we discuss them as competitors. Values are retail sales excluding sales tax.

Figures marked ¹ are RisetLokal estimates. Our base series comes from syndicated retail tracking. We rounded it and cross-checked it against listed company reports (Mitra Adiperkasa, Sepatu Bata), BPS inflation and trade policy records. Dollar values use Bank Indonesia average annual exchange rates.

03 · Market Size

IDR 136 trillion, the same as before the pandemic

Year	Store sales (IDR trillion)1	Growth	Outlets1	Selling space (‘000 m²)1
2019	137.8	–	38,700	6,980
2020	89.3	−35%	38,500	6,910
2021	107.1	+20%	38,500	6,840
2022	124.1	+16%	39,500	6,910
2023	137.6	+11%	39,700	6,970
2024	136.3	−1%	39,000	7,080

The 2020 collapse was deeper than for most retail. Malls closed under social restrictions, and clothing is easy to postpone. The rebound ran until 2023. In 2024 the market went sideways. BPS put consumer inflation at just 1.6% that year, so the dip was not a price effect. Shoppers simply bought less, or bought elsewhere.

Store productivity tells the same story. An average outlet sold about IDR 3.5 billion in 2024 on about 180 square metres, or roughly IDR 19 million per square metre. That is close to the 2019 level in rupiah, but well below it after inflation.

04 · Segmentation

Two retail worlds: the mall and the street

Segment	Typical format	Who shops there	2024 performance
International fast fashion	Large mall stores, often multi-level	Urban middle class, young adults	Growing: new stores, larger formats
Premium and luxury	Flagships in Jakarta, Surabaya, Bali malls	Upper-income shoppers, tourists	Growing; least affected by weak spending
Sportswear	Mono-brand and multi-brand sports stores	Young adults, fitness and running boom	Growing; new concepts such as Nike SportHub
Local footwear chains	Street and mall shops (Bata, Buccheri)	Mass and middle market	Mixed; Bata in sharp decline
Independent shops and market traders	Small shops, traditional markets (e.g. Tanah Abang)	Lower- and middle-income shoppers	Declining; losing to e-commerce and cheap imports

The independent sector is where the market is won or lost, because it holds the overwhelming share of sales. These shops sell cheap, often unbranded clothing and shoes, and they compete head-on with marketplaces and with low-priced imports. When lower-income households cut spending in 2024, these shops took the hit.

Sportswear and casual wear are the bright spots. More Indonesians, especially women, have taken up running, yoga, Pilates and Zumba, and sports clothing is now everyday clothing. Nike, adidas, Puma and multi-brand operators have opened bigger stores to catch that demand.

Modest fashion is a large and distinctly Indonesian niche inside these numbers. Hijabs, long dresses (gamis) and koko shirts sell strongly before Ramadan and Eid. Local Muslim-wear brands such as Zoya, Elzatta and Rabbani run their own store networks across Java and Sumatra, often in smaller cities that international chains have not reached. Many of these brands also sell heavily online, so their store sales understate their true size. For an international brand, this is the segment where local players hold the clearest advantage: they know the fabrics, the colours and the timing of the religious calendar far better than a global buying team.

05 · Competitive Landscape

A long tail, with franchise operators behind the big brands

By brand owner, H&M leads with about 1.9% of specialist sales, followed by Inditex (Zara, Pull&Bear, Bershka, Stradivarius, Massimo Dutti) and Fast Retailing (Uniqlo). No brand owner reaches 2%.

The picture changes if you look at who actually runs the stores. Many international brands enter Indonesia through local franchise partners. The largest is Mitra Adiperkasa (MAP), which operates Zara, Mango, Massimo Dutti, Marks & Spencer, Payless, Converse, Staccato, Cotton On, Lacoste, Nautica and more. Counted as an operator, MAP is the largest specialist retailer with about 3% of sales. MAP group revenue reached IDR 37.8 trillion in 2024, up 13.6%. Online sales grew 19% and made up 9.2% of the total. Its MAPCLUB loyalty programme has about four million members. The group’s growth while the market was flat shows how far the mall segment has moved away from the rest.

Sepatu Bata is the opposite case. Its store count looks stable, but the business has shrunk. Bata closed its Purwakarta factory in April 2024, and its third-quarter 2024 revenue was 26% lower than a year earlier. In the first half of 2025, sales fell another 39% to IDR 159 billion. In September 2025 shareholders voted to drop footwear manufacturing from the company’s business purpose. Bata now sources all its products from local suppliers and works purely as a retailer.

06 · Demand Drivers & Constraints

A squeezed middle class and a young, online population

Indicator	Value	Why it matters
Middle-class population (BPS)	57.3m (2019) → 47.9m (2024)	The core customer of mid-priced fashion shrank by about 9.5 million people
“Aspiring middle class” (BPS)	128.9m (2019) → 137.5m (2024)	More households sit just below the middle class and trade down
Consumer inflation, Dec 2024 (BPS)	1.57%	Weak 2024 sales were about volume, not price
Specialist outlets, 20241	~39,000	Down 1.7% in a year as small shops closed
Average store size, 20241	~180 m²	Rising again as chains open larger stores

The middle-class numbers explain a lot. BPS reported that the number of Indonesians it classifies as middle class fell by roughly 9.5 million between 2019 and 2024, while the group just below it grew. These households are the main buyers in local chains and independent shops. When they hold back, the long tail of the market feels it first. Upper-income shoppers, who use mall chains and premium brands, have been far less affected.

On the positive side, Indonesia has a young population, a strong habit of buying new clothes for religious holidays and a growing interest in sport and casual wear. Those forces support demand over time even when a single year is weak.

07 · Channels & the Online Challenge

Stores versus marketplaces

Clothing and shoes are among the most-bought categories on Shopee, Tokopedia, Lazada and TikTok Shop. For independent shops, marketplaces are both a rival and a lifeline. Many Tanah Abang traders now sell online and through live-streaming. For mall chains, the answer has been omnichannel: MAP’s online-to-offline model lets members buy online and collect in store, and loyalty points work in both channels.

Retailer response	Examples
Bigger, more experiential stores	Nike Kelapa Gading SportHub with a basketball court; Puma flagship; adidas store relaunch
Neighbourhood formats	Uniqlo neighbourhood store in Bekasi
Loyalty and members-only discounts	MAPCLUB (~4 million members); H&M member offers
Seasonal promotions	Eid (Lebaran) and year-end sales, which are the biggest selling periods
Direct customer messaging	WhatsApp and email offers to existing customers

Eid al-Fitr is the single most important selling season. Many families buy new clothes for Lebaran, and retailers plan stock and discounts around it. For digital payment habits that support online fashion buying, see our digital payments report.

08 · Regulatory & Trade Environment

Import rules shape the price floor

Rule	What it does
Ban on used-clothing imports (Permendag 40/2022)	Imported second-hand clothing (thrifting stock) is prohibited, though informal trade persists
Social-commerce rule (Permendag 31/2023)	From late 2023, social media platforms may promote goods but not process transactions, which forced TikTok Shop to restructure in Indonesia
Import licensing changes (Permendag 36/2023 → 8/2024)	Tighter import checks in early 2024 were relaxed in May 2024 after port backlogs
Safeguard duties on textiles and garments	Extra import duties protect local textile and garment makers from cheap imports
Raw material import limits	Cited by Bata as one of its manufacturing problems

These rules pull in different directions. Protection helps local garment factories but raises costs for retailers that import, and enforcement against cheap informal imports is uneven. Local brands complain that low-priced goods still undercut them online, while international chains mostly absorb the rules through their supply chains.

09 · Implications

What this means if you are looking at Indonesia

• Brands entering Indonesia: the usual route is a franchise or distribution deal with an established mall operator such as MAP. These operators control the best mall locations and loyalty programmes.
• Local brands and suppliers: the mass market is under pressure from online platforms and imports. Growth is in sportswear, modest fashion and value-for-money basics with a clear brand story.
• Investors and landlords: the mall segment is healthy and expanding store sizes. The independent street segment is shrinking in real terms, which affects traditional market property such as wholesale textile centres.

Executive Summary Slides

Apparel and Footwear Specialists Industry in Indonesia: Executive Summary